North Luangwa

is a remote reserve

in the east of Zambia

specialist walking safaris

At 4636 square kilometres, North Luangwa is a remote and little visited reserve where the main focus has historically been on walking safaris.

The reserve is around a half of the size of the much better known South Luangwa, which lies just 30 km away.

The reserve is the best run in the country, largely thanks to the presence of the Frankfurt Zoological Society, whose work with the authorities to control poaching has been a great success, leading to large increases in wildlife populations. There are now thought to be more elephants up here than in South Luangwa.

This is a real backwater, receiving less than 5% of the visitor traffic experienced by its larger neighbour and contains only a handful of small accommodation facilities compared with the forty or fifty camps and lodges down there.

A major reason is that the reserve is almost exclusively focused on walking safari, which means that wildlife interactions tend to be less frequent and at greater distances.

At 4600 square kilometres, North Luangwa is half the size of the much better known South Luangwa.

However the park receives less than 5% of the visitor traffic and really does feel very remote.

The reserve is centred on the Luangwa River, with grassy floodplains backed by forests and hills.

It has the same range of wildlife as South Luangwa, although the animals tends to be less habituated and more difficult to find and approach.

The park has suffered greatly from poaching in previous decades, but is now making a strong recovery.

In fact there are now thought to be more elephants here than in the south, as well as a healthy population of reintroduced black rhinos.

Walking safari is the dominant activity, providing a very gentle and peaceful experience.

The area therefore tends to appeal most to experienced and outdoorsy safari travellers.

The main bases are the simple and outdoorsy Mwaleshi Camp and Takwela Camp.

Around 100km northwest lies the colonial estate of Shiwa Ngandu.

Access is usually by light aircraft charter from South Luangwa.

Gallery

Map

North Luangwa is a wonderful backwater, where visitor numbers remain low due to the simplicity of the camps and the focus on walking safari.

The usual stay duration is 3-6 nights.

Seasonality

Like most areas in Zambia, safari in North Luangwa is very seasonal and careful planning is extremely important.

Early dry season : May-Jun

The May-Jun season is a period of transition from the hot wet summer to the cool dry winter.

In dry years the green season should be reaching an end, the long grass should be yellowing and the animals starting to move back towards the permanent water sources along the river, all of which should lead to an increase in sightings.

In wetter years some elements of the green season conditions may endure all the way into June, making wildlife viewing a little more challenging.

In May-Jun, temperatures can drop pretty low during the night, but this has little adverse effect on safari, the days are gorgeous and there are virtually no insects around.

Although this is generally considered to be a decent time to visit, before the harshness of the main dry season kicks in, the camps here only tend to open for the season during June.

Dry season : Jul-Sep

The Jul-Sep dry season is the classic time to visit North Luangwa and is generally considered to be the best time for wildlife viewing, as serious numbers of animals are drawn into the permanent water sources from the vast dry hinterland.

During Jul-Aug the cooler temperatures of the preceding season can continue, but this has little adverse effect on safari, the days are gorgeous and there are virtually no insects around. The weather during Aug-Sep should be perfect.

The camps in the area are all open during this, their main season.

Hot season : Oct-Dec

The Oct-Dec hot season represents the transition period between the peak of the dry season and the start of the rains.

During this period the temperatures and humidities can become uncomfortably high in advance of the rains. This can be a very significant issue, especially since these simple camps do not have air-conditioning.

If considerable rainfall does arrive (usually during December) it usually brings a blessed relief from the high temperatures, but can be heavy and prolonged.

Of course the animals are delighted to see the rain and may start to migrate outwards from the river, potentially causing a marked drop off in sightings.

The camps tend to close for the end of their short season around the end of October.

Green season : Jan-Apr

The period Jan-Apr is the main green season in North Luangwa, when the area experiences the majority of its rainfall.

At this time the landscapes tend to be verdant and beautiful, the animals well fed and there’s lots of babies around, providing a great contrast to the harshness of the dry season.

With the wildlife being more dispersed and the long grasses providing extra cover.

The temperatures and humidities are usually higher than usual, although not usually to the extent of the preceding season. Conditions are usually pleasant enough.

It’s the Dec-Feb period which threatens the greatest chance of more cloud and rain, with safari conditions potentially becoming a good deal more challenging.

The camps in North Luangwa are all closed throughout this season as the ground conditions become too difficult to operate.

Getting there

North Luangwa lies to the east of the country and is almost always accessed by means of a light aircraft hop from South Luangwa.

It is also possible to include the area in an overland safari, typically starting in South Luangwa, driving up to North Luangwa, then cutting west to Shiwa Ngandu, optionally Bangweulu and down to Lusaka.

Where to stay

The North Luangwa area contains less than a handful of simple bushcamps, all of which are primarily focused on walking safari.