Elephant safaris
Elephants
are experienced in many ways,
easy from a vehicle, intense on foot
spending time with elephants can be utterly magical
Elephants are, ultimately, the most special animals in Africa.
They are enormous, powerful and dominant. At times they are terrifying. They even have the power to reshape ecosystems on a grand scale.
Yet at the same time, elephants are intelligent, sociable, sensitive and endearing, fascinating to watch for hour after hour.
Viewing and interacting with elephants is an essential part of most good safaris in Africa.
There’s nothing more exciting and rewarding than spending time with these gentle and sociable, often boisterous and entertaining giants.
Whilst elephants are quite easily found in most quality safari areas, the style and quality of sightings varies enormously.
If you want to get the most out of your elephant experiences then we strongly recommend you familiarise yourself with the following sections.
Frequently asked questions
Elephants are the largest living terrestrial mammals, with males weighing up to 6050kg/13,330lbs, standing 4.0m/13′ at the shoulder.
An elephant’s upper lip and nose are elongated to form a trunk, which is used as a fifth limb, as a sound amplifier and a method of touch. At the tip it has two opposing ‘lips’ (unlike the Asian elephant which only has one) which are used for precise and delicate manipulation.
Their ears are enormously enlarged and contain a network of blood vessels to assist with temperature regulation.
Elephants have four molar teeth. As the front pair wears down they are replaced by the rear pair, with a further six pairs growing during a lifespan of 40 to 60 years. Once the last pair wears down the animal will most likely die of starvation.
The tusks, which also continue to grow throughout the animal’s life, are enlarged incisors used for digging, stripping bark and fighting.
ridiculously long nose and teeth
The vast majority of African elephant interactions take place by vehicle.
The key variables that determine the quality of a sighting are the absence of other vehicles, the size and quantity of the elephants involved and their level of habituation.
Good locations for this type of experience are too many to list here, you can expect it in virtually all high quality safari areas.
Elephants regularly front up to vehicles, charging to within five metres, flapping their giant ears and trumpeting loudly, but in almost all cases these are mock charges designed to ensure that you keep your distance, whilst the more vulnerable members of the family move off to safety.
If you are with a good guide, then the chances are that this type of encounter will not be unduly stressful for the elephants, it’s just part of their regular behaviour. We’ve seen them do it to other animals too, including lions, wild-dogs and rhinos.
However, there are occasions when elephants do actually charge vehicles. Most often the situation is resolved by simply driving away, but if the animal catches the vehicle, it will think nothing of barging it, ripping at it with its tusks and even overturning it. Fortunately these incidents are relatively rare, but they do happen from time to time, particularly in locations where the elephants have suffered stress from hunting, poaching or conflict with local people.
There are some locations (notably Lake Manyara in Tanzania) where elephants are so habituated that they will approach a vehicle and even slide their trunk in through an open roof or window to sniff around for food, which can be most exhilarating. However, this behaviour is associated with areas of high vehicle traffic.
the easiest and most relaxed way to view elephants
Approaching elephants on foot is inherently the most exciting and intimate way to interact with these wonderful animals.
However it can also be very dangerous. Although the number of serious incidents are very low, we usually hear of one or two each year.
In 2010, one of our own guests was trampled by an elephant and was fortunate to get away with just a few broken bones. However, this was not during a deliberate encounter, but an unexpected encounter around camp.
Most of us here at ATR have approached elephants on foot many times and definitely recommend the experience. The key is to be with a very good guide and to listen and obey their every command. But even then there is an appreciable level of risk that you would need to take on board.
Here are some of the very best locations …
In Zimbabwe the very best location is Goliath Safari Camp in Mana Pools National Park, where approaches can be extremely close. Another good option is Hwange Bushcamp in Hwange National Park, where we have also found ourselves wondering who was the slowest runner in our group!
In Zambia we’ve also experienced some wonderful elephant approaches, especially when staying at the top walking camps in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa.
In Namibia we have experienced some very close approaches onto desert elephants out of Palmwag Rhino Camp and Hoanib Valley Camp. In both locations there are rocky outcrops that you can sit on and be perfectly safe.
In Tanzania the parks authority is just starting to wake up to the possibilities of proper walking safari and we have experienced some very good elephant approaches in Ruaha, especially out of Kichaka Zumbua, as well as increasingly good experiences in Selous and Tarangire.
In Kenya the best on-foot elephant approaches that we have experienced have been on the Mara Naboisho sector of the Maasai Mara. You generally have to seek out camps which happen to have a Zimbabwean or Zambian guide, as there is no great tradition for this kind of activity locally.
In South Africa the only place where we have experienced approaches of this type have been in the Kruger Private Reserves, although they tend to be quite few and far between, not many properties are prepared to take on this level of risk these days.
elephants on foot can be extremely exhilarating
One of the best ways to interact with elephants is back in camp. These gentle creatures are regular visitors to many camps, making it possible to sit quietly on your veranda and watch them grazing just a few metres away.
In some camps you may be woken up at night by the sound of a rough elephant hide scratching on the outside of your tent, bowing the canvas inwards as they reach for fruit in the trees overhead. Always check to see whether the tree above is fruiting
In Zimbabwe, there are several camps where you can more reliably find yourself surrounded by elephants, especially in Hwange during the Jun-Nov dry season. Properties including Camp Hwange and Little Makalolo Camp have very active waterholes out front, whilst at Somalisa Camp and Nehimba Lodge herds often come right up and drink from the pool, sometimes whilst guests are swimming. In Mana Pools the intimate Kanga Camp is built around an often very active waterhole.
In Zambia, the number one area for elephant-in-camp action is Lower Zambezi, notably at Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro Bushcamp. Close behind are the camps of South Luangwa, most of which enjoy regular visits, although by far the most extraordinary is Mfuwe Lodge where a particular herd regularly walks right through reception.
In Botswana, virtually all of the better camps in the Okavango Delta and Linyanti Waterfront areas also play host to local elephants on a regular basis. We have had notable experiences at Little Vumbura Camp, Tubu Tree Camp, Kwara Camp, Linyanti Savuti Camp, Duma Tau Camp and Lebala Camp. On occasion we have been pleasantly besieged in camp by a herd of elephants, literally on all sides and sometimes preventing us from going back to our rooms late into the night.
In Tanzania, we’ve had some pretty intense visitations in Selous at Lake Manze Camp and Sand Rivers Camp, in Ruaha at Mwagusi Camp, Mdonya River Camp and Jongomero Camp and particularly in Tarangire at Swala Camp.
In Kenya, many of the larger camps and lodges are surrounded by electric fences, so this type of experience is much less frequent, although we have had some very close encounters in the Maasai Mara at Rekero Mara Camp and Elephant Pepper Camp, as well as at Elephant Watch Camp in Samburu.
in many camps elephants are regular visitors
A hide is a simple structure in which you can conceal yourselves in order to view wildlife up close. Some hides are designed largely for the viewing of elephants.
The best hides are designed for just one or two people in which case the experience can be very intimate and hypnotic.
In Zimbabwe, two of the properties in Hwange, namely Camp Hwange and Little Makalolo Camp, have what are known as ‘logpile hides’, which can provide guests with a very intimate and exciting interaction experience. A nearby place appropriately called The Hide Safari Camp provides an eye-level view from a subterranean viewpoint.
In Botswana there is an even better sunken hide at Duma Tau Camp in the Linyanti Waterfront area, which provides a more secure eye-level view of a popular pachyderm waterhole. A similar facility was installed at the nearby Hyena Pan Camp in 2019.
In Zambia there is another excellent elephant hide at Kaingo Camp in the South Luangwa area, although this is more of a tree-house, so is not nearly so up-close-and-personal.
getting intimate with elephants
There are a number of locations in Africa where there are elephants which are habituated to human presence, meaning that you can really get up close and even touch them.
We have to be very careful here to avoid locations where elephants are being abused or simply being as lures for tourists.
There are presently three elephant projects that we support, all of which rescue orphaned baby elephants, raise them and, eventually, return them to the wild.
The Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi is by far the best known project. The real highlight is their release project in Tsavo, where you can stay and hang out with the youngsters as they get to know their new herd.
In the north of Kenya, the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary does a similar job, also with a lovely small lodge attached to provide intimate interaction with the youngsters.
In Botswana, Elephant Havens is a similar project, which also has accommodation for donors, but which is more commonly visited by helicopter when transferring between a lodge in the Okavango Delta and the main airport in Maun.
face to face with baby elephants
In Africa, elephants have never been widely domesticated or exploited for commercial purposes such as forestry.
African elephants are considerably larger than their more commonly domesticated Indian cousins and have generally been considered too wild to be trusted at close quarters.
However during the 1990s and 2000s several places popped up offering elephant riding, usually using animals which had been rescued from various abusive forms of captivity.
This was an activity that we never supported. Eventually public opinion shifted to join us.
Almost all of the operations which previously offered elephant riding have now either closed down or converted into a more gentle and less abusive elephant interaction experience.
Any places which continue to offer elephant riding are to be avoided.
not recommended
There were times back in the late 1980s and early 1990s when it looked like the days of the African elephant were seriously numbered.
Back then poaching of ivory, body part souvenirs and bush-meat was completely out of control, even institutionalised. Some of us here at ATR were working in the bush at that time and witnessed the wholesale slaughter of our local herds. It was a traumatic time.
Fortunately, the worldwide ban on the sale of elephant parts introduced by CITES in 1992 saw a hundred-fold drop in prices and an almost complete collapse in this heinous trade.
Since then elephant populations have bounced back quite strongly, as evidenced in locations such as Tarangire in Tanzania, where vast herds now gather, although mature tuskers are still notably absent.
But we are not out of the woods yet. Large vested interests continue to lobby hard for a lifting of the CITES ban and (we suspect because of the increasing Chinese influence in Africa) and poaching is once again on the increase, particularly in the Selous area of southern Tanzania.
We are trying to keep an eye on this and will not be afraid to back a suspension of tourism to certain areas should we think that it might make a difference.
Meanwhile, we cheer ourselves up with the knowledge that, in some parts of Africa (notably including Botswana), the problem is that there are, if anything, far too many elephants.
the disgusting ivory trade refuses to die
Indian elephants are around 20% smaller than their African cousins, with males weighing up to 5000kg/11,000lbs, standing 3.5m / 11’6″ at the shoulder.
They also, famously, have much smaller ears.
Although the vast majority of Indian elephants live in India itself, there are also smaller populations across Asia, including Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Myanmar, Malaysia, Laos, China, Cambodia and Vietnam.
twenty percent smaller
The Indian elephant has been domesticated for thousands of years, being used as a beast of burden in rural areas, a mode of transport in the cities and an instrument of warfare across the globe.
Domesticated elephants are so widespread across large parts of India, that you are much more likely to encounter them on the streets of Jaipur or Jodhpur than you are to meet wild elephants in famous national parks like Ranthambore or Bandhavgarh.
This can be really wonderful, since it can be such a joy to be up close and personal with these emotionally intelligent creatures. But it is, naturally, very different from encountering them out in the wild.
One stand-out option for interacting with habituated elephants at the moment is Dera Amer in the Jaipur area, which has a small herd of elephants rescued from hard working lives. Here you should be able to get very close to the animals, ‘holding hands’ with them and accompany them for walks in the bush.
domesticated elephants
Elephants have been used for safari in India for hundreds of years, most famously for the hunting of tigers during the Victorian period, a practice which continued all the way up to the 1950s.
Up to around 2015 elephant-back safari was offered in most of the national parks around India. A wonderful way to explore the bush, without the drone of an engine and without disturbing the wildlife.
Since that time, elephant riding has fallen from grace and is now widely frowned upon in India and has been banned from most parks.
Despite being pretty extreme advocates of animal rights, we have very mixed feelings about this move. When an elephant’s ancestors have been domesticated for perhaps a thousand years, and where they are clearly happy, well looked after and loved by their mahouts, the case for stopping the practice is not clear cut.
One reserve where elephant-back safari is still offered is the important Kaziranga area of Assam, in the far northeast, where the riverine reeds are too long and dense to enter in any other way, when searching for tigers.
In many other areas where riding has been banned, the elephants are still used by mahouts to ride out each morning to find the wildlife. If you are the first vehicle to arrive at a sighting, you may still be invited to join the mahout on his elephant, to take a closer look.
Where elephants are ridden in towns, notably to climb up to the Amber Fort in Jaipur, we are far less confident about the welfare of the animals and find it difficult to whole-heartedly recommend the experience.
unusual these days
Funnily enough, the best place to view elephants on the Indian subcontinent is arguably on the island of Sri Lanka, where several reserves (including Wasgamuwa, Wilpattu and Yala) have good populations, some of which can reliably be viewed year round.
One particular reserve in Sri Lanka, Gal Oya, is renowned for viewing elephants whilst they swim between islands in a lake, which is always a very special experience.
There are several reserves across India where elephants can be viewed in the wild, most notably at Kaziranga (1000 animals) and Bandhavgarh (50 animals).
Indian elephants are also commonly encountered in Chitwan National Park in the south of Nepal.
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