Safari to Shaba

arid but scenic safari area, alongside an ephemeral river

Set to the east of the Great North Road around 100 km (62 miles) north of Mount Kenya, 230 km (140 miles) north of Nairobi, Shaba Reserve is a scenic and atmospheric semi-desert conservation area.

At just 84 sq km (32 sq mi), Shaba is a relatively small conservation area, but one which serves as an important dry season centre for wildlife from a much broader hinterland.

The reserve is set against a backdrop of impressive granite outcrops, notably Shaba Hill, which rises 500m (1640′) above the surrounding plains.

The key feature is the palm-lined Ewaso Nyiro River, which winds its way through otherwise parched acacia scrub and sparse grasslands, fringed by a shock of verdant hardwood forests and characteristic doum palms. The river and its fringing woodlands make it possible for a wide range of wildlife to survive and thrive in this otherwise harsh environment.

Although there should be a good range of general wildlife and predators including lions, leopards and spotted hyenas, in our experience they tend to be rather thin on the ground and difficult to find.

Shaba is home to some of less familiar species which are characteristic of the area, notably including Grevy’s (imperial) zebras, gerenuks, reticulated giraffes and Somali ostriches.

Vehicle safari is the main activity, sometimes punctuated with bush picnics and sundowner drinks. Perhaps of more interest are the possibilities for some interesting walking safari, especially along the river.

Shaba was also the place where Joy Adamson (of ‘Born Free’ fame) chose to live for many years and it’s still possible to undertake a pilgrimage to Elsa’s Grave (the famous lioness from the story).

Unfortunately Shaba is a famously badly managed reserve which suffers from continued poaching and grazing pressures, meaning that it is low on wildlife and doesn’t have any highly rated accommodation options.

The best time of year to visit is generally considered to be the Jun-Oct dry season, but there are good reasons to visit during other months. In an area as naturally arid as this, the Jan-Mar green season can also be particularly interesting.

Where to stay

The only highly rated accommodation, Joy’s Camp, closed in 2012 and, although we have heard reports that it is being used as a base to train rangers, there seems to be no sign of it reopening to regular guests.

The only way that we are presently able to include Shaba in trips is to visit on day trips from the lodges in the nearby Samburu area.

visited as a day trip from nearby Samburu